Future Masters

Lauren Oakey gets the lowdown on our favourite rising makeup stars

To aspiring makeup artists, Val Garland is as iconic as the exceptional models, photographers and designers she’s collaborated with over her remarkable career. Now Val has teamed up with Mastered for a first-of-its-kind makeup course, designed to share with students Val’s formidable expertise, drawn from two decades of working with names like Moss, McQueen, Testino, Galliano and Demarchelier.

The four-month course isn’t designed for beginners, but aims to nurture makeup artists’ existing skills via weekly online briefs, videos and exercises. It includes Val’s advice on everything from hir-ing assistants to what is expected from you on a photo shoot, plus Q&As with Val and guests including fashion editors and legendary photographer, Nick Knight. There are videos from a host of collaborators, tips from Pixiwoo’s Samantha and Nicola Chapman on how to make the most of social media and also indispensable advice on how to work with the press from our own Sali Hughes.

This is no ordinary make up course – you won’t be shown how to apply foundation or put on eyeliner. It’s honest, informative and invaluable guidance on how to further your career and challenge yourself with the help of professionals who’ve been there and done that. Val’s aim is to help you deal with new and difficult situations, like having mere minutes to create a makeup look on some-one who’s arrived on set two hours late, or how to create a geisha look when you’ve turned up with two mascaras and a bag of bronzers. I’m sweating even thinking about it.

The course has given students the chance to fulfil assignments on briefs from the likes of Vivienne Westwood, iD magazine and Preen. The artists are given the opportunity present their work to camera and have the chance to have their work seen by Sali and featured on salihughesbeauty.com. I spoke to three artists whose videos were engaging, professional and stood out from the crowd.

 


Kacie Corbell

image3-2Tell me about your backgroundI fell in love with makeup when I discovered my mother’s makeup drawer. I was always the friend who did everyone’s makeup and when when I got to college to study marketing and business I started working at MAC during the holidays, which I absolutely loved. Luckily I have really pretty friends so I started taking pictures and built up this little portfolio. Then I started emailing photographers in the area that I admired and found a guy who I started testing with. I did the hair and makeup and he submitted it to an agency for critiquing – I got signed on the spot so I’m very lucky.

What made you decide to do the Mastered course with Val Garland?

A bunch of my makeup artist friends liked it and I thought it sounded too good to be true. I’ve always followed Val and thought it was such a good opportunity. I thought there’s got to be a catch, but there wasn’t and it’s absolutely amazing.

What have you enjoyed most about the course so far?

It sounds clichéd to say but my favourite part of this course is that it’s really forced me out of my comfort zone. In Boston it’s very commercial and natural, ‘no makeup’ makeup – I’m definitely fortunate to be able to do that everyday, and there’s a creative editorial once in a while but nothing like what Val does. Because when you do a lot of commercial makeup, you feel like your passion’s gone in a way; you get into a groove and know what products you’re going to use and how you’re going to do it and it’s easy.

image4-1Have you found any challenges during the course?

It’s really forced me to remember that makeup is art, and that you can find inspiration everywhere you go. For the first project where there was no brief, I sat down and stared at my computer for about half an hour. Before, you’d look to other MUAs for inspiration, which Val has taught me is completely the wrong thing to do. So that was challenging but it was so rewarding, finding my crea-tive process and now with the next brief I feel like I’ve got my groove going on.
I’m comfortable here in Boston, I love what I’m doing, I’m busy and feel so fortunate and before this course I thought that working with these top designers and designing runway looks was just a dream but now I feel like it could actually happen. I am planning on moving to New York because I feel like now, because of Val, I have my creative process and I feel confident. I want to be a trend-setter.

Apart from Val, who are your greatest influences?

Pat McGrath has always been an inspiration, Steven Meisel, Miles Aldridge is incredible. Kevyn Aucoin too obviously.

Which face would you love to make up?

Kendall Jenner and Cara Delevingne, everyone wants to make up that face. I did Gisele’s makeup once and I broke out in hives the night before, I was so nervous. She lives in Boston and was looking for a MUA for a commercial she was doing in town. She found my website, called my agency and booked me. I scrubbed my kit clean and made sure I’d sharpened all the pencils and I thought this isn’t good enough – so I went out and bought all new makeup. I researched what she loved, went out and bought everything and thank God I did because that’s what she asked for.

What three products can’t you live without?

Embryolisse moisturiser, Painterly paint pot from MAC and Too Faced Better Than Sex mascara 

 

Bernice Dodd

image5Tell me about your background

I started off as a model and we’d always have to do our own makeup, especially in Miami. I would crush up little rocks and berries and things and use them on my eyes. I moved to New York and ended up doing a cool campaign with Bruce Weber but I realised I needed a creative outlet. I wanted to do makeup but I was kind of nervous to start. A really good friend used to shoot those little clips for MTV and I stepped in when an MUA let him down . He threw me in at the deep end: didn’t tell how many girls there were or anything, just gave me $150 and sent me to Ricky’s to get the things I needed. I arrived and these three girls walked in – they’d come from a casting and their hair was fine, so all I had to do was their makeup and I loved it. When I moved to London, I was too nervous to break into the makeup thing so I thought I’d study beauty therapy at London College of Beauty Therapy. I had to squeeze pimples which was so disgusting. We did a little makeup section and I was doing better makeup than the teacher. That’s when I realised this is what I want to do.

What made you decide to do the Mastered course with Val Garland?

I’ve been back here in Cape Town for three years now and I’ve managed to get some really loyal clients but it’s really safe makeup; you get a brief and just have to copy it. I followed Val and I think she’s so amazing. She doesn’t do make up, she does art. It’s incredible. Other makeup course are sort of like how-tos where you almost get the recipe for the makeup. What I love about this course is that you’re watching Val work and can pick up tips but you don’t get the recipe. I loved listening to Sali too because I’d love to do beauty writing and everyone tells me to do a blog. I know I used to model but I was never that comfortable with it and would rather be behind the scenes as a part of a team making the girls look good.

image6cropHave you had any challenges during the course?

I felt overwhelmed when I looked at what all the others were doing, but I loved what Sali said about not comparing yourself to others, that it’s better if you don’t look and just do your own thing. Then you can be positive and give each other feedback. Everyone’s so talented and an artist in their own right so that was intimidating. Also I learned how to manage my time better.

Apart from Val, who are your greatest influences?

Pat McGrath and Lisa Eldridge because I love her makeup tutorials.

What would be your dream job?

I’d love to do Italian Vogue – the images are so beautiful. There’s a richness to them that you don’t see in other magazines.

Which face would you most like to make up?

I’m quite old school so I’d say Christy Turlington because I’ve always thought she has the most beautiful face.

What three products can’t you live without?

I would have to say Laura Mercier primer, Sensai volume mascara and Make Up International Super Matte Anti Shine

 

image1-4Hannah Marshall

Tell me about your background

I come from a hospitality background and worked in restaurants for a really long time. Before that I really loved makeup and dressing up – my mum used to give us her old makeup and clothes. I was obsessed with cutting up all of her magazines and sticking them on my wall and made face masks with really gross stuff. Working in restaurants stopped me being really shy and I forgot all about wanting to do makeup until I moved to Melbourne. Suddenly I wondered what I was doing with my life and needed a change. I found myself asking people in makeup shops where I should go for training and people kept telling me about Nick Dorning, a working makeup artist who had a school. It was the best thing, aside from this course, that I’ve done for myself. I managed to assist him things like Australian Stars in Their Eyes because my job at the time was really flexible.

What made you decide to do the Mastered course with Val Garland?

I guess because I don’t do a lot of stuff for myself – I have two children so a lot of my focus is them. All the paid work took priority so I couldn’t go out and do the fun stuff, so I just fell into a rut. But I kept seeing it on Instagram and thought it’s be amazing. Then Sali posted it and I always watch her videos and read her column so it kind of validated it for me. So the next day I applied and thought I would die if I couldn’t do it.

image2-2What have you enjoyed most about the course so far?

I really like everything, it’s structured really well and based in reality. The briefs are legitimate and it doesn’t make out that working in this industry is easy. I also love the voyeuristic aspect of looking into the amazing world of Val Garland. Even in the world of social media it’s still kind of inaccessible.

Who, apart from Val, are your greatest influences?

My close circle of friends are my biggest influences. I think Isamaya Ffrench is incredible and cool.

Which face would you most like to makeup?

I’d say Kate Moss, even though everyone probably says that. She must be amazing to work with. I love Bridget Hall’s face as well.

What are the three products you can’t live without?

Rosehip and calendula oil that my friend makes, Eight Hour Cream but the unfragranced version and Charlotte Tilbury pressed powder

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